✔️I don’t think I’ve ever spent this much time researching for a video as I have for this one so clicking on that like button would be HUGELY appreciated! Alright, let’s now GEEK OUT🖋️ about skincare!
✔️Also, I was able to ask a cosmetic product formulator about some personal questions that I had and thought it would be interesting to share with you guys!
❓Why do brands keep on making pure vitamin C products in a dropper with water in the solution?
-“It’s actually hard to formulate an l-ascorbic acid product with viscosity in it and that’s why a lot of brands use water-based solutions to create it. Also, because vitamin C is an active ingredient, it’s more apt to market them in a spoil type as a term as opposed to ex. a toner”
❓Some people say that peptides work- what’s the truth behind the ingredient?
-“While it’s true that peptide is too big to penetrate to the dermis, it actually has shown some regenerating effects on the deeper layers of the epidermis and that’s why some people might still advocate for it.”
✔️Here are some research papers and journals I referenced for this video!
https://scienceon.kisti.re.kr/srch/selectPORSrchArticle.do?cn=JAKO202120164194495&dbt=NART
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6981886/
https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/10/4/111
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/ics.12770
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7578929/
https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/10/4/111#B4-cosmetics-10-00111
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0196978119301482
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00490.x
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/037851739390340L
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/ics.12770 https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00490.x
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.15912
✔️Come hang out with me on instagram as well for more skincare tips & recs! https://www.instagram.com/_soobeauty/
✔️I launched my own toner pad
⚬Soo Good Feel Soo Calm Toner Pad
🔗amazon: https://amzn.to/3fji0SR
🔗stylekorean: https://rstyle.me/+4ttgss_q4VyGFMgtiibkPQ
🔗Wishtrend: https://rstyle.me/+vdQ0dcCEodMQ27qVLkWyiA
🔗yesstyle: https://shrsl.com/3rg6c
⚬/수뷰티가 직접 제작한 토너패드 구매하기:
🔗naver: https://smartstore.naver.com/soogood/products/5563925380?NaPm=ct%3Dkomkxyuw%7Cci%3D9bf06cf8bb8d1ccd0f79ea81eaa9b376bc77a534%7Ctr%3Dslsl%7Csn%3D3236578%7Chk%3D9f109cf561f3bbd3ecb8265b0f625b600562b253
✔️Products:
Benton Vitamin C Serum 20%
벤튼 비타민C 세럼
🔗amazon: https://amzn.to/430Wfzw
🔗yesstyle: https://shrsl.com/4ft55
🔗Stylevana: https://shrsl.com/4ft58
🔗Stylekorean: https://rstyle.me/+alb97bOh5daOh1DegxwBOg
ELMT Pure Vitamin C 20% Element
이엘엠티 퓨어 비타민씨 20퍼센트 엘리먼트
🔗amazon: https://amzn.to/3uTH928
🔗yesstyle: https://shrsl.com/4ft57
🔗Wishtrend: https://rstyle.me/+XWo7HrPQATE5InmWQ9HW6Q
✔️FTC:
⚬This video is not sponsored.
⚬본 영상은 광고를 포함하지 않습니다.
⚬Some of the links down below are affiliate links! 아래 링크는 해외에 계시는 분들을 위한 직구링크입니다!✔️I don’t think I’ve ever spent this much time researching for a video as I have for this one so clicking on that like button would be HUGELY appreciated! Alright, let’s now GEEK OUT🖋️ about skincare! ✔️Also, I was able to ask a cosmetic product
1:18
And I wouldn’t necessarily recommend to anyone regardless of their skin type because I think it’s a waste of money this may be the worst way to package a vitamin C product or pure vitamin C product I just basically poured money down the drain literally hey guys it’s
Back to my shannel all right guys first right off the bat it’s a little gloomy dark today so excuse the little Darkness but for today’s video I’m going to be talking about products that I will no longer be spending or should I say wasting my money on that’s right versus
Products I will be spending my money on and this is going to be a Duty one you guys know it I don’t think I’ve ever been through so many papers and journals as I have for this video so make sure to press that thumbs up but yeah without
Further Ado let’s get this video started ch ch now when I’m not recommending products there’s always two categories the first categories of are products that just didn’t sit well with me specifically for my skin type and this is not to say that they’re bad products on an absolute term no they just didn’t
Work for me so if you want to know which ones are the ones that I personally were not fonded of make sure to check out my latest empties video now for today’s video I will be specifically talking about products that I wouldn’t necessarily recommend to anyone regardless of their skin type because I
Think it’s a waste of money first first I will be refraining from buying specific pure vitamin C or aloric acid products in specific packages such as droppers multi bombs and an open and transparent Lids bear in mind that I’m not talking about vitamin C derivatives I’m talking about pure vitamin C Al
Ascorbic acid product so pure vitamin C or El ascorbic acid is an amazing ingredient if your skin can withstand it and luckily my skin loves it I love vitamin C products it has so many benefits backed by science that it will be such a Pity to miss out on and these
Benefits include being a very potent antioxidant and it also helps with sun damage anti-aging or slow aging and so it helps with the appearance of wrinkles sunspots Etc however it is a very fickle and difficult ingredient to work with just because how unstable and fragile the ingredient is and so there are many
Factors that can lead to its stabilit or oxidization including UV race oxygen exposure and water exposure which is interesting because 99.9% of skincare products have water in them so first let’s take a look at these vitamin C products that comes in these droppers now that I think about it and
As I was doing my research for this video I realized that this may be the worst way to package a vitamin C product or pure vitamin C product like I literally Googled why do Brands keep on making vitamin C products in droppers it’s just it just doesn’t make sense
Thing is straight off the bat with these droppers every time you open it the content or the formulation comes in full contact with air exposure and like I said air or oxygen is one of the things that oxidizes and makes the formula unstable thus decreasing the potency of
These products also most ascorbic acid that comes in these droppers have water in them water is the main ingredient and the thing is water is another factor that oxid is a formulation and that’s just really ironic because that means that as soon as formulators create are making these batches the vitamin C
Starts to oxidize immediately and that’s why even if you have stored your vitamin C in the back of your drawer you know it’s shut tight when you open it you will see that it still has oxidized and that is because of the water that’s in the formulation also did you guys know
That sometimes with these vitamin C products formulators will deliberately put in ingredients other ingredients that have a natural yellowish Hue tint to it so that it’s hard for you to tell if the product or the formulation has oxidized and there are other packages with these transparent lids and this
Obviously first does not block out the UV ray it does minimize air exposure but I feel like with these products you would have to use it really fast because of this transparent lid there are also multi bombs and toner pads with vitamin C pure vitamin C in it and all the
Packages they’re just so opened to the oxygen and they don’t really seem to block out everything as sufficiently and let me just talk about skin suitical which we know is one of the high-end products very expensive vitamin C products out there and I’m just like I
Don’t know this is one that’s very old you can see like the dropper has gone crazy I don’t know what’s going on here but I had the stored in the back of my drawer and I hadn’t opened it but because of of the water content you can
See it’s already oxidized and so this has I just basically poured money down the drain literally and that’s why I said I wouldn’t want to waste my money on these products especially just because for me I’m always testing out so many products at the same time so I need
My product to be stable for a longer period of time so what will I be investing in instead from now on I will be purchasing vitamin C pure vitamin C Products that come in airtight pump packages without any water in the formulation such as these two Tada or I
Will be just using you know vitamin C derivative products like the 1071 which you guys know I love so I have these two products this one is from Benton this is their vitamin C serum and then this one is the elmt pure vitamin C 20% element both of these have once again airtight
Airless pump packages and they don’t have any water in their solution also both packages block out U eray and in the formulation they they’ve also Incorporated a lot of ingredients to stabilize vitamin C so with the Benton one they’ve included vitamin E or ferulic acid and toot Triano and gathon
And ectoin so all these other ingredients to stabilize vitamin C and with the elmt w it has waterless formula that suspends finely melt vitamin C uh in the air I don’t know the technology is kind of cool with this one but it ensures that the vitamin C is activated
Once we apply it so that is a very very interesting technology going on here now what’s also further interesting is the formulation of these two especially with the bentum one first the pump is very rigid and very stiff but I think it’s part of the technology to keep out any
Oxygen exposure but the formulation it feels almost gooey creamy and you can feel a sensation of warmth when you apply it it’s kind of cool it’s nothing hot but it almost feels stemy and of course according to the brand it is because of the waterless factor of the
Formulation that makes that creates this steam like sensation and it just melts into your hands effortlessly it doesn’t feel greasy or oily at all but it does feel pretty I guess gunky in a sense so this is what I’ve been using every single day day and night in my routine
With the elm T1 it’s a little less gunky you can see that it kind of pumps out way easier and also the formul I you still do feel a little bit of that gooey Factor but once again this also spreads out very very nicely and also
Guys make sure to put vitamin C onto your hands as well and top it off with SPF just a little tip here while we’re at it so these types of vitamin C are the ones that I will be investing and spending my money on from now on next
Are collagen and peptide products first let’s talk about collagen ah yes collagen now I will say I willut continue to buy them as humectants as collagen has very good film forming properties and they do make a great inclusive they are great humant the Enis free cream one which you guys know I
Absolutely love I did a sponsorship with them back last year it’s honestly one of my favorite products from the brand I think it’s fantastic however I will no longer be purchasing any collagen products with the hopes that the collagen in the product will actually increase collagen production and make my
Skin more plump because it does not work that way and that’s why when I did the sponsorship with any tree I made it clear that I won’t be delivering that kind of message in my videos I was like hey I think your product is great with the ceramide and I think the product
Itself is great to fortify the Skin Barrier and thus leading to a healthier and more plump looking skin but I don’t personally believe that the collagen in your product will specifically Target the dermis increase the collagen production of my skin and they were really okay with that they’re like
That’s fine and I really do appreciate that because not a lot of Brands would have said yes to that and so kudos to e3e I think they are doing a great job now there’s no doubt that when you look at them as singular ingredients that both CAA and pepti have great benefits
For Plumping up or helping with the elasticity of the skin for example there’s a specific peptide called I’m butchering I yeah I’m going to butcher this palmoil pentapeptide and this peptide can specifically increase the collagen production in the dermis but the more important question is can this peptide specific peptide travel through
The epidermis and land the dermis where it needs to be yes we’re talking about skin permability this is the biggest question people have in mind when looking at peptide or collagen products and it basically refers to whether these ingredients can pass through our skin I think by now everyone knows knows that
Collagen it’s way too big to pass through our skin you guys know an ingredient needs to be under 500 D to actually seep in but collagen is way too big for that and so nowadays I don’t know if you guys noticed what brands are doing is they’re releasing products with
Liposomal collagen or collagen in liposomes or low molecular weight collagen so tun collagen so let’s take a look at these two first a liposome collagen if you you guys didn’t know liposome they’re not active ingredients themselves but basically just imagine them as a pocket of fat that will encapsulate these active ingredients
These act like carriers so that the active ingredients can pass through our skin better and enhance the total delivery system if you will and when liposome comes in contact with the skin it gets absorbed in with the with the active ingredient that it was carrying So in theory it maximizes skin
Absorption so ideally it sounds perfect really but let’s take a look at the science behind it there are studies done to look at the efficacy of these liposomal collagen however most of that the majority of them are carried out by cosmetic manufacturers and this means that they’re very biased because of
Course they want these ingredients to work so that they can continue to make them and put it out into the market and a lot of these studies also seem to include the words like possibility feasibility enhance there hasn’t been very conclusive statement from especially from the studies that I’ve
Read you know which nonetheless these words are very used in a positive way but let’s be honest there’s nothing concrete about them also I was very curious as to how big these liposomal collagens were in terms of dants like their molecular weight but apparently manufacturers do not disclose them which
I’m not surprised by really now let’s take a look at low molecular weight collagen or toona collagen which is another tactic that a lot of brands have employing in their marketing basically low molecular weight collagen hydrolate collagen or hydroly collagen all mean peptides so now let’s look at what
Science has to say about this ingredient peptides are short chains of amino acids that are the building blocks of certain proteins needed by our body including collagen and elastin and there are four types of peptides there are signal carrier neurotransmitter inhibitory and enzyme inhibitory peptides and when
Looking at the pep TI as ingredients singular ingredients themselves they also hold so many benefits and so so much potential to help with the elasticity of our skin and some of these benefits include antioxidant anti-aging or slow aging um anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial so it holds a lot of potential however despite whatever type
Of peptid it is a lot of studies point out that peptides are not the most ideal ingredient because once again of skin in permeability can it pass through the epidermis once again this is due to the fact that peptides are also way too big to pass through our and they also have
Other characteristics like their pH level their temperature their hydrophilic nature that make it very very hard for them to pass through our skin our skin for example it’s hydrophobic it does not like water that’s why we’re in like taking a shower we don’t like melt and like we don’t
Absorb all the water that we get so although on the cellular level peptide does show a lot of benefits without the ability to actually permeate through the skin it will render everything will render it being useless right and because of this there has been a lot of
Research going on to find ways to better enhance the skin permeability and these include chemical ways physical ways and encapsu encapsulation ways sorry so people are looking to liposomal methods like the ones I just talked about or microing or using like these frequencies to help it further get absorbed into the
Skin but the truth is that we still need to see more research and more results to really see whether it has solved the skin permeability of peptides now at this point there should be a certain question popping into your brain at least it had in mind then why do Brands
Keep on making collagen and peptide products despite the lack of science especially with the skin permeability challenge well first you have to realize that the peptide and collagen Market is huge in the Cosmetic industry as a matter M of fact pepx account for 10% of the sales of pharmaceutical uh companies
Which amounts to $25 billion so it’s a huge market and you guys can see for yourself there’s a lot of peptide there’s a lot of collagen products out there and most of them are pretty highly priced once again these products do make great tant but do I think they’re worth
That price markup especially when I when when it’s not guaranteed that they will actually pass through the epidermis the industry as well as consumers ourselves we are in love with the idea of what these ingredients can do for our skin I mean heck yeah I would love it if
Peptides and collagen worked you know and so I think this equation that collagen peptide equals elasticity this equation has been ingrained into our brains so deeply so widespread that Brands want to free ride off of this because one thing you guys have to know when it comes to product development and
Using new ingredients is that when brands do incorporate new ingredients that people are not aware about they have to spend extra money educating people about these ingredients which might include paying influencers to do collapse or doing more commercials or doing more campaigns and that is just
More cost to them which means more risks and with companies you guys know they’re their number one priority is to maximize profit so that’s why a lot of brands do not like using new ingredients and that’s why you see all so many Brands using honic acids so many brands use I
Don’t know green tea so many brands use ha BHA and while there’s so many benefits to these ingredients as well there is another reason why all the brands use the same ingredient they don’t have to use that extra money to educate because we already know highing acid equals shant green tea is
Antioxidant coming sea and centella is also coming and regenerating we all have these equations down in skin so bad so it’s easier for Brands to work with and collagen peptides is another ingredient that people associate elasticity and plumpness so much that it’s easier for Brands to just be right off of that and
Make easy money so I’m just like eh I don’t know guys I don’t know how I feel about that I understand coming from a business point of view but for as a consumer a skincare fanatic as myself I don’t know guys I it feels a little iffy
You know okay so what will I be buying instead of for the plumpness and elasticity for my skin I will of course be spending more money on vitamin C retinol or retinol products and SPF and I will be doing a separate video exploring which ones are the best to
Work with which ones work better for my skin so if you guys want to see that video make sure to let me know in the comments down below all right guys that’s it for today’s video I hope you guys enjoyed and I hope you guys found
This helpful I’ll list all of the papers and journals that I’ve read and that I referenced for this video down below in the description box so you can check it out for yourself if you’re interested but yeah let me know if you guys found this video helpful fun useful all right
Guys I’ll see you guys in my next ciao
