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Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.
My first memory of San Francisco was visiting with my parents to get my US citizenship when I was eight or nine. I was born in Afghanistan and came to the US a year and a half later. We landed in Montana and moved to Fremont, a sprawling city in California’s Bay Area, shortly after. That’s pretty much where I grew up.
Fremont is only about 45 minutes outside of San Francisco. But that first visit – going to the big city and seeing the Golden Gate Bridge – was really eye-opening. I knew immediately that I was a city girl. I was like, “Oh my God – this is the life I’m destined for.”
Homidi at the bar at Bix restaurant in the north-east of the city © Aaron Wojack
It’s not about what you’re wearing here. It’s about who you are
San Francisco is known to be at the sort of liberal forefront of everything. There’s so much diversity and it’s always been about being free and living your best life. I moved to New York in 2008 to pursue my career as a make-up artist, working my way up to collaborate with brands including Celine, Chanel, Calvin Klein and The Row. But when I come back – a few times a year – it feels like a homecoming. The Bay Area definitely has an influence when I think about the looks I’m drawn to. Chicana culture [a movement that emerged from Mexican-American communities] was really popular when I was growing up – there was a lot of winged eyeliner, dark lips and blue eyeshadow. I worked in beauty retail here at Neiman Marcus, which is still where I go if I have an event and need to find something.
Raised in the Bay Area and now living in New York, Homidi visits San Francisco several times a year © Aaron Wojack
Outside Bix © Aaron Wojack
Now when I’m in San Francisco, it’s mostly for work; the US HQ of Sephora, a large-scale stockist of my eponymous beauty brand, is based here. I often stay at the Hyatt Regency in the airport. You’re thinking, “Is that not kind of shabby?” But it’s one of my favourite hotels. A more historic option is Sir Francis Drake [now the Beacon Grand]. It’s very San Francisco – quite gaudy with a lot of old-fashioned-looking furniture. But it’s an experience.
I also stay at The Ritz-Carlton for events with Sephora from time to time. They have something called the Sephora Brand Summit, where anyone who’s anyone from every brand is invited to experience the company’s big year-in-review. There are lots of panel talks, and there’s usually one night where everyone has a nice dinner and we all hit the bar. It’s your moment to represent your brand, show up and show out. Everyone’s dressed to the nines.
The recently reopened Beauty Bar, one of Homidi’s favourite nightspots © Aaron Wojack
Neiman Marcus deparatment store: “It’s where I go if I have an event and need to find something” © Aaron Wojack
This isn’t the type of town that pops up a bunch of new restaurants. New York is very that; London is very that. San Francisco, not so much. I tend to stick to the classics. I love Cotogna in Jackson Square, a beautiful Italian restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating. The menu is seasonal: just ask the waiter what the best thing is right now.
Nearby, Bix is a fun place to go with a group. It’s kind of grandiose with a steakhouse feel – all wood and rich burgundies. They have this take on steak au poivre which is ground meat that’s really crispy at the edges. Growing up, I’d also go to Steps of Rome with my friends. It’s kitschy but fun and you can’t go wrong with any of the pasta there.
Homidi at Bix © Aaron Wojack
Murals by Mindy Lehrman Cameron above Bix’s bar © Aaron Wojack
San Francisco can be really cold, windy and foggy. In the summer you have about two weeks of perfect weather, and if you go to any event in the Golden Gate Park during that time, it’s the most magical experience ever. Everyone’s got their blankets out, they’re picnicking, they’re talking to each other. In the ’90s we went to Lilith Fair, an all-female music festival – we saw Annie Lennox, Jewel and Sade.
Some of my best memories have been at The Warfield, an intimate venue where you can see your favourite bands up close. And I love Beauty Bar in the Mission District, which is like New York’s SoHo. It closed in 2024 – I was heartbroken because you could go there at any time and know it was going to be the best night – but it recently reopened. I also go to the Alchemist Bar & Lounge or Top of the Mark on Nob Hill. You take an elevator up to the very tip-top of the Mark Hopkins hotel to a beautiful bar with a 360-degree view of San Francisco. Everyone goes to dance.
Outside Horsies Market & Saloon in the Mission District © Aaron Wojack
Recommended
Fisherman’s Wharf is a great place to walk around and eat seafood. Around 20 minutes out of the city in Berkeley, Telegraph Avenue is somewhere you could spend a day vintage shopping. And if you love hikes, there are lots around here, some starting right under the Golden Gate Bridge.
The Bay Area is very nature-oriented. A lot of people are active, and it’s so beautiful that you want to do that sunset walk or bike ride. There’s a different type of air here; it’s lush with trees and greenery. And it feels like that creates a certain type of person – they’re confident but not overly flashy. The fashion feels very sporty: quilted vests and tennis shoes. I love that, because it’s not really about what you’re wearing here. It’s more about who you are.
BARS, CAFÉS & RESTAURANTS
Alchemist Bar & Lounge alchemistsf.com
Beauty Bar @beautybarsf_
Cotogna cotognasf.com
Horsies Market & Saloon 3368 19th St, 94110
Steps of Rome stepsofromesf.com
Top of the Mark topofthemark.com
SHOPPING
Fara Homidi farahomidi.com
Neiman Marcus neimanmarcus.com
Sephora sephora.com
THINGS TO DO
Golden Gate Park sfrecpark.org
The Warfield thewarfieldtheatre.com
WHERE TO STAY
Beacon Grand beacongrand.com
Hyatt Regency San Francisco Airport hyatt.com
The Ritz-Carlton, San Francisco ritzcarlton.com
