The greatest downside of the skincare industry is the ever-opposing opinions. I have never come across an ingredient or theory or technique where every founder, expert and brand has been on the same side. One swears by double cleansing, another rolls their eyes and says “waste of time”. Retinol? Either the holy grail or responsible for all our skin barrier woes. Even SPF. It has its evangelical cheerleaders, but there is still a minority who mutter: “Surely not every single winter day?”
Yes, there have always been conflicting commandments. Until now. Enter peptides. The first ingredient I’ve seen in my time as a beauty editor that unites the room. No debates. No buts. No “well actually…”. Dermatologists love them, formulators obsess over them and consumers are finally cottoning on. Everyone, it seems, is rooting for peptides. But hold on. What is a peptide? It’s one of those words many of us hear and think, “Yes! I’ll have some of those,” without knowing what they are or how they work. The official line is that peptides are one of the most reliable ways to future-proof your skin without irritation. But I’ll say this now: they’re complex. Don’t try and read this while scrolling, eating cereal or ordering your coffee. You can’t skim peptides between emails. Take a seat. Switch on Do Not Disturb mode. Let the pep talk begin.
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What are peptides?
“Peptides are short chains of amino acids that are the building blocks of proteins such as collagen, elastin and keratin,” says Dr Mike Bell, the head of science research at No 7. “These proteins form the foundations of your skin, giving it smoothness, bounce and elasticity.” Peptides are made naturally in our bodies, but — you knew this was coming — production decreases as we age. By adding them via our skincare routines they can “act as signals to prompt natural collagen and elastin production, which is key to improving firmness and texture over time”, Bell says. The consultant dermatologist Dr Emma Craythorne describes them as “text messages” telling cells what to do.
What can peptides do for your skin?
More like, what can’t they do? “Peptides can help support a stronger skin barrier, improve elasticity, soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, promote a more even skin tone and calm redness and inflammation,” says Daniel Isaacs, chief product officer at the British skincare brand Medik8. They sit in a rare, drama-free, sweet spot where there’s no exfoliation and no overnight miracle claims. They can be found working hard in the background building long-term strength and resilience. Less fireworks, more foundations.
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Are peptides for you?
Short answer: yes. Peptides are widely tolerated by all skin types and tones, including sensitive and rosacea-prone complexions. If your skin has ever thrown a tantrum because of acids or overenthusiastic actives, think of peptides as the calm, collected overachievers, getting on with the job without causing a fuss.
How do you use them?
Peptides slide into your routine seamlessly. You’ll mainly find them in serums, moisturisers and eye creams, and they’re compatible with pretty much everything. No danger zones or complicated rules.
There must be a catch…
Here it is. Peptides aren’t a “skincare ingredient” in the traditional sense. “They’re signalling molecules,” says the consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto. “The reason they feel suddenly ubiquitous is that they sit at the intersection of dermatology, longevity medicine and performance science.” She explains that the same class of molecules is being explored for muscle repair, immune function, metabolic health and even neurological pathways. “Skincare is just the most consumer-friendly end of a much bigger scientific story.”
Craythorne adds that peptides isn’t a snazzy new term. “They’re having a moment, but this is more of a revival,” she says. “It’s because peptides fit neatly into the wider wellness narrative. Semaglutide [Ozempic] is a peptide, insulin is a peptide, and longevity clinics are increasingly using injectable peptides. Skincare is borrowing this language and legitimacy because peptides feel medical.” Mahto agrees. “What we are seeing now is a real area of biology being rapidly commercialised, with ‘peptides’ becoming a catch-all label that covers everything from genuinely interesting science to fairly thinly evidenced marketing claims.” Essentially: not every bottle that says peptides is doing the same thing.
Which brings me neatly on to …
Not all peptides are created equal
Formulation matters hugely, as does packaging. “Look for airless pumps and opaque bottles,” Craythorne advises. Peptides are fragile and notoriously difficult to deliver effectively into the skin. It’s also helpful to know which peptides you’re using, rather than relying on vague claims such as “peptide complex”. “There isn’t just one type of peptide,” Craythorne says. “There are hundreds, each with different roles and mechanisms.” Marketing often lumps them together as a single hero ingredient, but peptides behave differently depending on their structure, concentration and delivery system. I warned of the science gobbledegook — and here it is.
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Dr Emma Craythorne’s top three evidence-based skincare peptides
Signalling peptides
These support collagen production for firmer, plumper skin over time. They’re some of the most extensively researched peptides in skincare.
What to look for on the label: Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl)
Carrier peptides
Skin-repair workhorses that improve antioxidant activity and promote wound healing. Research shows they can help to calm inflammation and support barrier repair, making them particularly useful for compromised or sensitised skin.
What to look for on the label: Copper tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu)
Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides
Often marketed as “Botox-like” (a stretch — the term should be nixed). These peptides can mildly interfere with nerve-to-muscle signalling to soften expression lines, not freeze them.
What to look for on the label: Acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Argireline)
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My five peptide picks
For blemish-prone skin
Medik8 Niacinamide Peptides (£49, medik8.com) helps to keep breakouts in check, visibly improves congestion, supports the skin barrier and reduces redness, all while delivering a glass-skin radiance. Potent but gentle.
For fine lines and wrinkles
SkinCeuticals P-Tiox (£135, skinceuticals.co.uk) is formulated to help to soften contraction lines and improve the appearance of wrinkles. Users have noted a subtle, sheeny glow after about seven days.
For eyes
CeraVe Peptide Complex Skin Renewing Eye Cream (£23, boots.com) is an ultra-lightweight formula that smooths and softens the delicate eye area without irritation, even for the most sensitive.
For body
No7 Future Renew Damage Reversal Hand Cream SPF 15 (£18, boots.com) follows the cult Future Renew Damage Reversal Serum that caused a stir for the claims that it could visibly reverse signs of ageing. No 7 has just announced a full peptide-led body line-up. Hands are always a good place to start.
For bounce and glow
Allies of Skin Copper Tripeptide & Ectoin Advanced Repair Serum (£190, spacenk.com) is a supercharged complex that works on softening the appearance of fine lines while targeting dark spots and pigmentation, leaving skin more even, plump and radiant. Skin experts rave about this formula.
