This £10 M&S fragrance makes you smell ‘younger, happier, more modern’

Youth in a bottle? Perhaps we’ve been looking in the wrong places. Rather than seeking an ageless elixir in a serum or face cream, consider the anti-ageing effect of scent – because the right fragrance can immediately bestow an aura of youthfulness, according to perfume experts.

Certain perfumes have an immediate lightness to them – a breezy, optimistic quality that lifts the mood, softens the shoulders and sparks a sense of ease. In a spritz, they remind us of moments when life felt simpler, freer and a little more joyful.

That ‘instantly youthful’ feeling is rooted in psychology as much as preference. ‘A fragrance that feels youthful, carefree or joyful is largely age-agnostic,’ says Jonny Webber, fragrance expert at Perfume Direct. ‘It’s less about whether you’re 15 or 50, and more about how the structure of the notes creates an immediate mood boost.’

What makes a perfume smell youthful?

The concept of ‘youthful’ fragrance is part of perfumery’s history. ‘There was a clear moment in the 70s when perfumes such as Anaïs Anaïs, Charlie and Diorella were launched in response to younger women wanting to smell ‘modern’ and ‘youthful’, basically the opposite of their mothers who wore Chanel No5 and Guerlain Shalimar,’ says fragrance expert and presenter Alice du Parcq. ‘That association has been a red thread in perfumery ever since, where brands have marketed launches to a younger demographic by using fruity, crisp, citrus and glowy white floral notes.’

‘So when we smell zesty notes (like lemon, mandarin and grapefruit), watery fresh fruit concepts (like watermelon, melon) and ethereal breezy petal accords (like peony, waterlilly, lotus flower) our brain connects them with lightness, vitality and energy, which are all feelings symbiotic to youth.’

Neroscenting expert and VEXA Beauty founder Sabah Karimi agrees that the scents most often described as ‘youthful’ sit within these bright, airy, green and zingy fragrance families.

instantly youthful fragrances Marina Moskalyuk/Getty

Bright, citrus, green and floral notes all create a youthful scent

‘These profiles feel sparkling and unfussy,’ Sabah explains. ‘They mirror real-life cues we code as fresh and new – just-showered skin, spring air, a seaside breeze. Worn in sheer concentrations, they keep a buoyant aura that many immediately interpret as young-at-heart.’

From a neurological point of view, it makes sense. ‘These notes sit at the top of a fragrance and evaporate more quickly,’ says Jonny. ‘They create an instant sense of freshness and energy, and the brain associates them with daylight, cleanliness and the outdoors — which reads as uplifting rather than heavy.’

Which scents instantly lift your mood?

Citrus and green notes are particularly powerful. ‘Bergamot, grapefruit and crisp greens stimulate alertness and optimism in much the same way as fresh air or morning light,’ says Jonny. Aquatic and mineral notes, meanwhile, often trigger associations with holidays and open space, which reduces mental load and creates a sense of freedom.

instantly youthful fragrances blackCAT/Getty

The right scent will be a mood-booster

Warm yet airy, the solar scent family also ‘reads’ as youthful, carefree and optimistic, explains Alice. ‘Notes such as jasmine, monoi, tiare and ‘hot’ syrupy citrus notes like blood orange and mango are often used by perfumers to bring sunny warmth, happiness and relaxed, laid-back bliss to perfumes.’ Penhaligon’s Solaris is among her favourites: ‘warm and suntan lotion-y, with island flowers and creamy vanilla.’

Penhaligon’s SOLARIS

Even softer gourmand notes can feel youthful when used lightly. ‘Vanilla in particular has been shown to lower stress responses and create comfort,’ Jonny explains. ‘It taps into early scent memories — sweets, lip glosses, first fragrances — which the brain reads as playful and safe.’

Can a fragrance feel youthful without being sweet?

Absolutely. Salty coastal scents are a really good example of modern perfumes that feel youthful without being overly sweet, says Alice. ‘Jo Malone London Wood Sage & Sea Salt, or M&S Discover Sea Salt & Neroli, have cold, crisp and savoury herbal notes to bring freshness and clarity to the blend, and they physically ‘lift’ a perfume upwards. That ‘lift’ brings about a sensation of youth and energy.’

M&S Discover Sea Salt & Neroli

Does how you wear it matter?

Yes, your application plays a role in creating a ‘youthful’ scent aura. ‘Lighter concentrations, skin scents and thoughtful layering keep fragrances feeling fresh rather than dense,’ says Jonny. Eau de toilettes, colognes, light spritzing and even hair mists allow those bright, youthful notes to shine.

instantly youthful fragrances

Carol Yepes

Memory matters more than rules

All that said, what smells ‘youthful’ is deeply personal, and indelibly linked to our memories. While citrus and green notes are widely read as fresh, how youthful they feel depends on what they remind you of — holidays, getting ready with friends, or a favourite early perfume. As Sabah puts it: ‘Universal scent psychology sets the stage, but autobiographical memory turns the volume up or down.

instantly youthful fragrances Tatiana Meteleva

Scent can trigger memory

Alice agrees: ‘Our own ‘perceptions’ of a smell is so individual to our own upbringing and cultural memories. You can’t dictate that or predict it, so it’s the one area in the beauty industry that brands can’t control. For instance, someone will feel intense comfort, happiness, safety and calm when they smell JLo Glow, but for someone else it’ll trigger all the chaotic mistakes they made when they were 15 and leave a sense of insecurity and panic in them!’

‘This is what makes perfume an art form, like a piece of music or a painting,’ she says. ‘You cannot manipulate someone’s smell perception and instruct them to like it, because fragrance is wild and unboxable. I think that’s pretty cool!’

The best ‘youthful’ fragrances according to the experts

Sabah Karimi’s top fragrance picks

Glossier You ‘for its soft, ambrette-led skin vibe.’

Phlur Missing Person ‘captures that intimate just-showered aura.’

Jo Malone London Wood Sage & Sea Salt ‘offers breezy mineral and green brightness.’

Glossier You Eau de ParfumCredit: GlossierPHLUR Missing Person Eau de ParfumCredit: Space NKJo Malone London Wood Sage Sea Salt CologneCredit: Jo Malone