I love gel manicures, but after months of back-to-back appointments, I’m swearing off them in pursuit of healthier nails, with a little help from the experts.
If the 2026 nail trends are anything to go by, manicures are going minimal, with a focus on treatments that strengthen and nourish, as opposed to just long-wearing tints. Think your natural nails, but better. This care first, colour second mindset comes as no surprise, given the growing wellness movement. I am evangelical about tracking my steps, sleep and stress levels on my Oura ring. And yet, I’ve been completely blinkered when it comes to my own nail health, covering over the proverbial cracks with back-to-back gel manicures.
This is not to say that gel and BIAB manicures are not a wonderful thing. I’ll still treat myself to a two-week manicure for holidays and special occasions. For now, though, I’m putting my nail health first, but how does a gel addict overcome battered, crumbly old nails? I spoke to the pros to share their wisdom on restoring struggling, damaged nails to their full health.
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Why I’m weaning myself off gel manicures, and how I plan to do it
“Gels and BIAB are not inherently damaging,” explains Rebecca Crawforth, founder of nail brand Navy Professional. “Issues usually arise from over-buffing, repeated infills, or aggressive removal. Over time, this thins the nail and disrupts its natural structure, leaving nails weak, flexible and prone to splitting.”
There are many reasons why I’m prioritising care over colour – cutting my monthly spend, saving time, embracing a more casual aesthetic – but the one that jolted me out of my gel stupor was the discussion around TPO, a potentially toxic ingredient found in gel polish that helps the curing process. It’s already been banned in the EU, with the UK expected to follow suit. The good news is this has forced gel brands that weren’t already compliant to reformulate, but I can’t deny that all this chat has spurred me to take on a cleaner approach.
So, I’ve quizzed the experts on the steps I need to take to restore my nails and keep them strong, in the absence of gels.
1. Being patient
“Healthy nails are built quietly, over time,” says Crawforth. Consider nailcare as essential as your daily skincare routine. “Consistency is everything,” she stresses. “Daily cuticle serum application, gentle maintenance and resisting the urge to over-buff or over-treat the nails will deliver far better results than any quick fix.”
But how long until my paper-thin nails become stronger? “Most people notice their nails feel healthier within two to three weeks if they are consistent with daily care,” says Crawforth. “A full nail grows from cuticle to tip in around four to six months, so long-term improvement relies on patience and maintaining good habits throughout that growth cycle.”
2. Focusing on shape
If yours feel flimsy, like mine, you’ll be relieved to know that short, straight nails are back. “We’ve spent years in the era of long, almond-shaped nails, but 2026 is set to bring a noticeable shift with short nails taking the spotlight,” says Lynn Mason, in-house expert at Mavala.
“Not only do they align perfectly with the rising trend of natural, healthy nails, but they also offer a look that’s clean, classic, and effortlessly elegant.” Thankfully, keeping things short and tidy also means weak nails are less likely to break.
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Margaret Dabbs London
Crystal Nail File
RRP: £16
I find a crystal file is much gentler on my nails than those scratchy emery boards. The high-quality crystal means you can file in any direction, sealing the nail edge to prevent splitting.
Navy
Doris 2.0 Curved Manicure Tool
RRP: £42
A bit of regular maintenance will do the trick to keep the nail bed neat. Use this curved edge to gently push cuticles back after your bath or shower.
Leighton Denny
Trio Miracle Buffer
RRP: £6
This buffs up nails a treat, ironing out ridges, creating an instant shine that screams understated elegance. It’s the nail equivalent of a great exfoliant, leaving a smooth and sheeny finish.
3. Building a skincare wardrobe for my nails
“Hydration should become a daily habit,” stresses Crawforth. “Using a cuticle serum consistently helps restore flexibility and strength to the nail and surrounding skin. This can be paired with a breathable treatment base and gentle filing to encourage healthy regrowth.”
Invest in your nailcare regime with the best nail strengtheners and finishing products to give nails that polished and preened look.
The bond builder
OPI
Repair Mode Bond Building Nail Serum
RRP: £29.90
Like a bond-building hair mask for nails, the breakthrough formula helps repair keratin bonds to build four times stronger nails in six days. A favourite on the beauty desk, it’ll immediately filter out that flaky, papery, post-removal appearance so nails look healthier.
The strengthener
RRP: £21
Just as you might seek out a targeted serum to tackle skin issues like wrinkles or pigmentation, there are specialist nail treatments designed to hone in on your specific concern. This serum helps nails become more resilient, leaving a glowing finish.
The treatment oil
Sally Hansen
Vitamin E Nail & Cuticle Oil
RRP: £11
Nail technicians agree that the most important thing you can do for healthy nails is to apply cuticle oil every day. Apply daily to boost circulation, stimulate growth, encourage bend and flex, and strengthen.
The serum
RRP: £9.95
Keep it in your handbag or on your desk as a constant reminder to apply and reapply. Like a vitamin shot for worn, weathered cuticles, it keeps everything hydrated to promote healthier nails.
The CC cream
Manucurist
Active Glow Raspberry
RRP: £16
One step up from completely bare, this flattering sheer blush makes nails look healthy, plump and clean. Think of it like a CC cream for battered nails, glossing over imperfections like an Instagram filter, with extra nail-nourishing perks.
The retinoid
Beauty Pie
Super Retinol Anti-Aging Hand Treatment
RRP: £12.50 (£35 for non-members)
Retinol accelerates cell turnover so skin looks brighter, smoother and generally fresher. Use it before bed and top up with sunscreen to protect your hands during the day.
4. Embrace nail-enhancing shades and polishes
Channel the airy, barely-there aesthetic with these spring-coded neutrals that enhance rather than mask your natural nails. Like makeup for your nails, these soft, glossy shades allude to maximum nail health, and elongate the look of your fingers.
If your gripe with ‘regular’ polish is how quickly it chips, don’t be lured back to gels. Instead, Crawforth has some sage advice: “Ensure nails are clean, dry and free from oil before applying polish. Always use a base coat and cap the free edge with both colour and top coat. Applying thin layers and allowing proper drying time helps improve longevity.”
Westmoreland Cosmetics
Glass Polish Vanilla Gloss 3
RRP: £16
Celebrity manicurist, Harriet Westmoreland has bottled her secret sauce, creating a collection of sheer, soapy shades that can be worn alone, or layered. Vanilla Gloss 3 is a milky-rose that flatters every skin tone, with a beautiful glass-like finish.
OPI
Nail Lacquer in Funny Bunny
RRP: £15.60
Celebrities, nail techs and brides fawn over this milky-white polish. One coat gives a sheer wash of colour that makes nails look clean and crisp, or build up to create a more opaque effect.
Mavala
Nail Polish in Wichita
RRP: £6.80
“All colours look great on short nails,” says Mason, “but there’s nothing quite like a soft baby pink for a clean, put-together look. This delicate pink perfectly embodies the ultimate ‘clean girl’ aesthetic.”
5. Maintaining my manicures
Taking a treatment-over-trend approach shouldn’t mean swearing off your local nail bar. Just as using deep-conditioning masks and heat protectors wouldn’t mean skipping the hair salon for regular trims, getting care and advice from a nail technician will help keep nails strong, healthy and beautiful. For me, carving out an hour for myself is still important, and there’s nothing like that fresh mani feeling.
Tellingly, many salons are moving with these treatment-led times. On the menu at Townhouse is a ‘Naked Manicure’, which includes 30 minutes of flawless nail prep – shaping, cuticle care and moisturising, with a buffed, no-polish finish. “A naked manicure is about enhancing the natural beauty of your nails rather than masking them,” explains Juanita Huber-Millet, Founder and Creative Director at Townhouse. “It is a look that whispers sophistication rather than shouting it.” Now there’s a reason to go naked.
