I’m soaking in a deep copper tub, suds pillowing around me, the scent of blossom in the air and birdsong scoring the moment. Leaves rustle softly overhead. Lazily, I open my eyes — and find a pair of amber ones staring straight back at me.
About three metres away sits a baboon, appraising me in my slightly ridiculous open-air bathroom setup.
For a few seconds we’re locked in a bizarre staring contest, my awareness of the complete lack of walls around me suddenly all too keen. Then it blinks its close-set eyes, decides I’m not that interesting after all, and lopes away, whooping and grunting, with six or seven others.
I exhale as the troop passes by, take a sip of my champagne and turn my attention instead to a far more peaceful sight: a herd of elephants grazing in the distance.
This is safari, wellness style.
Hattie Parish
I’ve spent five days at Paradise Plains, a boutique safari camp in Kenya’s Maasai Mara run by the Wilder Group. My welcome — arriving by tiny bush plane and greeted on the airstrip with champagne — very much set the tone for the days ahead.
Here, wildlife roams freely through camp, meals unfold under the African sky and every experience — from game drives to yoga — happens entirely outdoors. It’s immersive, exhilarating and unexpectedly restorative.
What’s the safari experience actually like?
Safari days begin early (you’re up at 6am for morning game drives) but trust me, it’s worth every minute of lost sleep.
You head out in an open-sided cruiser, wrapped in blankets with hot water bottles on your lap, binoculars ready and a cooler stocked with drinks. The magic of safari vehicles is that animals see the car as a single entity rather than the people inside it, meaning you can get astonishingly close without alarming them. And the Maasai Mara is practically swarming with wildlife.
The very first animals we see are a huge herd of elephants, majestic and serene against the rising sun. And it only gets better from there.
Over the four days we spot hippos wallowing in muddy streams, giraffes drifting elegantly across the plains, zebra and wildebeest grazing, jackals darting through the grass and cheetahs snoozing beneath umbrella trees.
Lions prove particularly thrilling. On one drive, a huge male strolls right up to our vehicle — apparently keen on the shade beneath it — while I sit paralysed, sure he can hear my heart hammering against my rib cage.
We see buffalo, rhino and hyenas too, along with countless birds — from tiny flashes of colour to hulking birds of prey scoping out leftovers overhead. Warthogs unexpectedly become a personal favourite, largely due to the hilariously sassy way they run across the plains. According to our Maasai guide Tinga, they often forget where they’re running too, which only adds to the charm.
Tinga is brilliant — endlessly knowledgeable, quick to spot movement in the distance and full of fascinating insights about the animals. The Maasai have even named many of the big cats roaming the reserve and will identify them, as well as tell us their backstories.
Hattie Parish
Hattie Parish
The elusive leopard remains the only member of the Big Five we don’t see — though others in camp that week are lucky enough to spot one. But honestly, seeing four out of five in just four days isn’t bad going.
One particularly unforgettable drive sees hyenas attempting to steal from two lions who’ve brought down a buffalo. What unfolds is a long, tense game of strategy — hyenas distracting, sneaking bites of meat and occasionally triumphantly making off with an entire limb, whooping as they run. It’s a reminder that nature in action is messy, raw and utterly fascinating.
Hattie Parish
Hattie Parish
What if I want to experience the Mara beyond game drives?
While the classic safari drives are the highlight, there’s plenty more to do. One morning begins at 4:30am (I know, I know) with a hot air balloon ride over the Mara. Floating silently above the plains as the sun rises is one of the most serene experiences imaginable.
Hattie Parish
Hattie Parish
Below us, elephants, giraffes and impalas wander across the golden grasslands, the vastness of the landscape stretching endlessly in every direction. Our pilot John expertly puts any nervous passengers at ease, and afterwards we’re rewarded with a bush breakfast and certificates to mark the occasion.
Another day we set out on a walking safari with a Maasai guide named Halifax, who shows us how to read the landscape; animal tracks, plants used for medicine, the subtle ways wildlife and ecosystem exist in symbiosis. Watching giraffes spar while zebra graze nearby is unforgettable, made even better by the champagne breakfast laid out in the shade of an Acacia tree afterwards.
Breakfast in the bush invites all sorts of guests
End the days with sundowners in the bush (drinks and an incredible spread to enjoy while the African sunset turns the plains gold and crimson), or back at camp, cocktails are served around the fire while Maasai warriors perform traditional songs and dances. It’s one of those wonderfully simple human rituals: sitting around a fire under the stars, swapping stories and reliving the day’s sightings.
Hattie Parish
Hattie Parish
Can safari feel… restorative?
Surprisingly, yes. A huge part of that is simply being outside all the time. At Paradise Plains there are no fences, meaning wildlife wanders freely through camp and nature surrounds you constantly (don’t worry, there are Maasai guards on hand day and night). One side faces the sweeping savannah plains, the other the Mara River, where hippos grunt lazily in the water.
The yoga deck overlooks a river favoured by hippos
Naturally, the wellness offering leans beautifully into this setting. Yoga takes place on a hidden deck perched above the river, where you can stretch while watching hippos wallow below. The spa’s treatment rooms are open to the elements, meaning massages unfold to the soundtrack of birdsong rather than music. My deep-tissue massage works out knots I didn’t realise I had, alternating firm pressure with assisted stretches and the occasional deeply satisfying joint crack.
Hattie Parish
Hattie Parish
There’s also a breezy open-sided gym overlooking the plains — where baboons and elephants sometimes wander past mid-workout — plus a beautiful infinity pool perfect for afternoon lounging.
The on-site gym looks out across the plains
And then there’s that bath. Deep copper tubs sit in open-air bathrooms facing the wilderness. You can ask for yours to be drawn ready for when you return from a game drive (champagne optional). Don’t bother bringing a book; you’ll simply want to take in the view.
Hattie Parish
What’s the food like on safari?
In a word, incredible. Breakfast might be a picnic in the bush mid-game drive, with elephants grazing in the distance, or a champagne spread waiting after a morning walk. One morning we stop the car to feast on egg, bacon, avocado and aioli rolls, overnight oats, pastries, fruit and fresh juices, all laid out on the bonnet. Another brings pancakes, yoghurt, granola, cheeses and antipasti.
Hattie Parish
Hattie Parish
Lunches at camp lean lighter: vibrant salads, mezze plates, poke bowls and excellent homemade breads and dips. Plus high tea appears every afternoon with sweet treats and finger foods.
Hattie Parish
Hattie Parish
Dinners are where things get truly spectacular. Standout dishes include Wagyu steak, open-fire grilled ostrich fillet, pan-seared Nile perch and De Barbari duck, followed by desserts like saffron-poached pears and rhubarb frangipane tart.
One evening is devoted entirely to a traditional Kenyan feast (easily the best meal of the trip and one not to miss). Highlights include chicken skewers (Mishikaki ya Kuku), aromatic beef biryani and a rich red bean and spinach stew.
Hattie Parish
Hattie Parish
Where am I staying?
Paradise Plains is a luxury safari camp in the Musiara region of the Maasai Mara, positioned between the Mara River and sweeping savannah plains — one of the most wildlife-rich parts of the reserve.
The camp itself consists of nine beautifully designed tented suites connected by winding walkways through the landscape, plus communal areas like the pool, lounge, dining room, gym and spa treatment rooms.
Paradise Plains
Your suite is made up of three separate tents: a bedroom, living room and bathroom. All can open entirely to the elements, with nets or canvas flaps depending on how close you want to feel to nature.
Paradise Plains
Each suite comprises a living room, bathroom and bedroom with ensuite
The design is best described as Out of Africa meets modern luxury. Think antique furniture, old maps, kilim rugs and traditional safari chairs — nodding to the colonial-era explorers who once travelled through these landscapes — balanced with modern comforts like Dyson hairdryers, Smeg coffee machines and yoga equipment in every room.
Paradise Plains
The camp was designed to blend seamlessly into its surroundings, preserving the natural landscape while allowing wildlife to roam freely through it. At night you fall asleep to the sounds of the Mara — something I heartily recommend you leave your tent open for. On my final morning, I wake to four elephants, including a tiny baby, grazing right outside my tent. Watching them, sipping tea on my deck, makes for a pretty perfect farewell.
The verdict
This is safari done right (and, I’ll admit, a little boujee). Wildlife encounters are extraordinary, the food exceptional and the camp itself manages to feel both luxurious and deeply connected to nature.
But perhaps the most powerful part is the wellness element; the way simply being immersed in the wilderness slows your pace and sharpens your senses. You sleep deeply. You breathe more slowly. You spend your days outside, moving between adventure and rest. And occasionally, you find yourself sharing a bath with a baboon.
Paradise Plains
Go there!
Suites at Paradise Plains start from $850 (approx. £640) per night per adult sharing, with the family suite starting from $3,200 (approx. £2,400) per night.
Game reserve fees start from $100 (approx. £75) per adult per day.
The camp is located in Kenya’s Maasai Mara and can be reached either by road or air from Nairobi.
Flights: There are regular direct flights from London Heathrow to Nairobi with airlines including British Airways and Kenya Airways. From Nairobi, it’s a 45-minute scheduled bush flight into the Mara (landing at Musiara Airstrip) or around a six-hour drive.
For more information, visit: paradise-plains.com
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