In the age of TikTok, there’s no shortage of viral skincare terms. #SkinTok, as it is known, is a veritable minefield of ‘softmaxxing’ and ‘cloud cream’ aesthetics, and an expanding index of ingredients that can be near impossible to decipher. None, however, are more buzzy than those in the Korean beauty landscape right now.
So many new trends are flooding from high-tech K-beauty routines into the algorithms of skincare enthusiasts right now, from the ubiquitous glass skin phenomenon to PDRN. Of course, the latest term capturing the attention of the online world is ‘spicule skincare’. Often referred to as ‘liquid microneedling,’ this skin technique swaps traditional rollers for needle-like structures (derived from hydrolysed sea sponges) to reach the deeper layers of the dermis, delivering actives more effectively into the skin and boosting collagen production.
Ahead, ELLE UK spoke to aesthetic doctor and skin expert, Dr Christine Hall, about the benefits of using spicule skincare and what you need to know if you’re considering adding the trending term into your regime.
What is spicule skincare, and how does it work?
‘Spicules are microscopic, needle-like structures that originate from sea sponges. They form part of the sponge’s exoskeleton and are composed primarily of natural minerals such as silica and calcium,’ says Dr Hall. ‘In skincare formulations, they are highly purified and refined and are extremely small particles, so fine that they are invisible to the naked eye but clearly visible under a microscope,’ she shares. When massaged into the skin, these microscopic structures can penetrate the skin in a similar way to a microneedling tool.
‘When incorporated into a serum or cream and applied to the skin, microspicules perform three key functions. The first is gentle exfoliation and stimulation of the skin’s natural renewal process. Unlike traditional physical scrubs from previous decades, which often relied on irregular particles that could scratch or damage the skin, microspicules are much more refined. They create subtle micro-stimulation within the superficial layers of the skin, encouraging cellular turnover and helping to remove dull surface cells. The result is skin that appears smoother, brighter and more even in texture,’ adds Dr Hall.
The second benefit is that they create tiny microchannels in the skin. ‘These microchannels are tiny areas of trauma which triggers the body’s repair mechanism causing collagen stimulation,’ says Dr Hall. Microscopic ‘trauma’ spicules effectively trick the skin into repair mode, causing a surge of collagen production and cell turnover, which translates as a more radiant-looking complexion.
Matteo Valle//LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT
This process also delivers actives into the dermis. ‘One of the greatest challenges in skincare is that the skin barrier is extremely effective at preventing substances from entering the skin, including beneficial ingredients – primarily because the size of the particle is just too big. Microspicules temporarily create microscopic pathways within the outer layers of the skin, allowing active ingredients such as peptides, antioxidants and hydrating molecules to penetrate more effectively,’ she shares. This won’t, however, play havoc with your skin barrier. ‘The spicules remain within the superficial layers of the skin for roughly twenty-four hours, after which they are naturally shed through the skin’s normal renewal process.’
Why is spicule skincare suddenly popular?
‘It has been integrated into Korean skincare for more than a decade, its recent rise in popularity internationally is largely linked to the growing fascination with Korean skin ideals, particularly the “glass skin” look,’ shares Dr Hall, who adds that everyone is trying to emulate that refined, intensified glow.
Spicule technology also offers a bridge between topical skincare and aesthetic treatments – it increases collagen production and delivers hydrating and effective ingredients into the skin, without any downtime, and all while remaining non-invasive. ‘When they are layered with barrier-supportive and moisturising formulations, many people notice visible improvements in radiance, tone and skin texture,’ she shares.
Can it mimic the effects of microneedling?
‘Spicules behave differently. Rather than penetrating deeply into the skin, they remain within the superficial layers of the epidermis and create micro-stimulation without causing true dermal injury. The comparison arises because they can still improve texture, support skin renewal and enhance the penetration of active ingredients, producing some similar aesthetic benefits in a much gentler way,’ says Dr Hall, who urges that you will not see the same results.
If you are looking for microneedling effects without the downtime in a clinic, she recommends a facial treatment (available at the Taktouk Clinic). ‘This facial is referred to as liquid microneedling or the Glassifier, where microspicules are combined with targeted clinical serums depending on your skin concern. It offers patients many of the advantages they are looking for – improved radiance, smoother skin and better delivery of active ingredients – without the downtime associated with traditional microneedling procedures.’
Matteo Scarpellini//LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT
Though spicule skincare is still in its infancy in the UK right now, Dr Hall says the advancements are promising and that it can yield glowing results for many. ‘It is particularly beneficial for dull or uneven skin, early signs of ageing and those seeking a brighter, more refined complexion,’ she shares. Anyone with sensitive or easily reactive skin will want to avoid this technique, however, and those with a damaged skin barrier.
‘In my view, the most exciting aspect of spicule technology is its ability to enhance the performance of topical skincare. By improving ingredient delivery while gently stimulating the skin’s renewal processes, it represents a sophisticated evolution in non-invasive skincare, one that reflects the increasingly science-driven approach emerging from Korean beauty innovation,’ she concludes.
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Amelia Bell is the Multiplatform Beauty Director for ELLE UK and Harper’s Bazaar, developing beauty strategy, writing, editing, and commissioning, and leading beauty content across both sites. Amelia has a particular interest in wellness and longevity, exploring the skin-mind connection, and decoding the latest treatments, tweakments and runway trends. She also has bylines for Women’s Health, Refinery29, British Vogue, Harrods Magazine, and more.
