Key takeawaysIndia’s beauty market is becoming a major hub for innovation and biotech-driven raw materials.Potion Inc. was created to shift skincare’s focus from trends and external conditions to the biology of the skin itself.The brand blends botanical actives with biotechnology for gentle but high-performance formulations.Founder Sanjana Balani shares the challenges of changing perceptions around natural ingredients and self‑funding an R&D-led brand.Her upcoming in-cosmetics Global session highlights the importance of human-centred brand building in today’s industry.
The India market is a major focus for the global beauty industry right now. Not only does it offer immense potential for innovation, it is also emerging as a leader in raw material development.
Ahead of the in-cosmetics Global show in Paris this April, we spoke to Sanjana Balani, Founder & CEO of Potion Inc., India’s first biotech-powered beauty brand. Balani will be speaking about her journey at the trade show, but here she gives readers a sneak peek…
Hi Sanjana, why did you decide to launch Potion?
“Potion came from something I noticed over the years of moving between countries and environments. Each country I moved to had different climates, pollution levels, humidity, and temperatures, and I constantly felt like I had to change my skincare routine to suit my skin. It made me realise how much the industry focuses on external factors and trending ingredients, but not enough on the skin itself.
“At the same time, I thought about my grandmother. Growing up in an Indian household, I always caught her using simple, natural ingredients on her face, such as hand-pounded neem powder or a homemade version of milk cream called ‘malai.’ More surprisingly, they always seemed to work. That stayed with me, so I began digging into the why.
“It increasingly made me believe that the conversation around skincare needed to shift inward. Instead of formulating products based on the environment and trending ingredients, what if we focused on the skin as an organ? The skin is our largest organ, and I began researching the markers that define good, healthy human skin: the microbiome, pH balance and hydration levels.
“We simultaneously live in a world where people don’t have the time to hand-pound neem in their kitchens. So, I wanted to combine the reliability of nature with the precision and convenience of technology.
“Potion was created at that intersection. We use botanical actives for their natural potency, combining them with biotechnology and delivery systems to create formulas that are extremely gentle, effective, stable and suitable for modern lifestyles. Ultimately, the goal was to build skincare that works for real life, regardless of different climates, cities and routines.”
What have been some of the biggest challenges?
“It’s changing people’s impression of nature and natural ingredients. Many people assume that natural skincare is calm and gentle, but not necessarily potent. There is often a perception that it is more about self-care rituals than functional or preventative skincare.
“One of our goals has been to prove that nature can be both powerful and convenient. For example, neem is traditionally known for its purifying properties. Instead of using it in a traditional format, we use neem beads filled with neem extract in our Clean Slate Molecular Cleanser. This not only allows neem’s bioactive components to be felt, but it also allows us to deliver it stably and effectively.
“This approach proves that nature and technology are not opposites. They can work together beautifully.”
What have been some of the highlights?
“One of the most memorable highlights happened very early in our journey. I still remember, just a month after launching Potion, we attended a trade show in Korea and asked a question during a panel discussion. That conversation eventually led to an invitation to speak at an international industry event in Bangkok. That international industry event was in-cosmetics Asia. I still have goosebumps thinking about how all of that manifested.
“Standing on an international stage so soon after launching the brand was incredibly heartwarming. It reinforced the idea in me that curiosity and genuine engagement can open unexpected opportunities. Moments like that remind you that building a brand is not only about products, but also about contributing to conversations within the industry.”
How did you fund the brand — and what challenges came with that?
“Potion is currently self-funded. In some angles, that can be challenging, but it also forces you to be extremely intentional about what you build.
“When you invest your own resources, you can’t afford to create products that you are uncertain about. Every product has been developed with a very clear understanding of what customers need and why they need it. For example, our research discovered the negative effects of blue light radiation on the skin, and so we added red bell pepper extract – proven to block blue light ageing – to our sunscreen formulation.
“We spend a lot of time interacting with our community and listening to feedback. Because the brand is self-funded, staying close to the customers isn’t just fulfilling, it’s essential.”
What advice do you have for other beauty brand founders?
“Trust your intuition. Especially these days, it’s so easy to become overwhelmed by trends, opinions and external advice. The skincare industry is a ‘more is more’ industry, and everything is happening all the time. While momentum can be helpful, too much of it can dilute the authenticity of your vision.
“I always encourage founders to focus on solving a problem that genuinely needs a solution. Create something you truly believe in and something you would personally use. At the same time, remember that building a brand is never a solo effort. Surround yourself with people who bring different strengths to the table and stay humble throughout the process.”
Anything else readers may want to know?
“Coming from a corporate background at Estée Lauder Companies taught me many valuable skills. Things like long-term planning, strategic thinking and operational discipline. But what I’ve learned since building a brand is that the real superpowers required today are often more human. Emotional intelligence, empathy, patience and compassion are just as important as strategy.
“The beauty industry exists to serve people. Understanding their needs, experiences and emotions is what allows brands to create products that truly resonate.
“While corporate boardrooms provide structure, the ability to stay human and be vulnerable is what ultimately builds brands that last.”
Sanjana Balani, Founder & CEO of Potion Inc., will present the session ‘Corporate boardrooms to biotech labs: a founder’s lessons in building skincare for the real world’ at in-cosmetics Global on Wednesday, 15 April, 15:30–16:15 in the Marketing Trends Theatre.
in-cosmetics Global 2026 will take place from 14–16 April at the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, France. For more information or to register, visit the event website.
