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Vitamin C is one of the most important things you can put on your skin.
The vitamin C everyone knows is not the one I trust most anymore.
And the form most people still chase may be the very one holding them back.
In this video, I sit down with a skincare PhD who no longer recommends the classic form so many people swear by. We get into the stability problem, the low-pH trap, why irritation is often mistaken for results, and the newer form that may make a lot more sense for real-world skin.
If your skin has ever felt stingy, reactive, tight, or just not better despite “doing all the right things,” this may explain why.
There is a reason more formulators are quietly shifting.
And most consumers still have no idea.
Watch this before you buy your next vitamin C.
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Pinnell SR, et al. Dermatol Surg. 2001. Topical L-ascorbic acid absorption was highest at very low pH, below 3.5, helping explain why it can work but also why it can be irritating and hard to tolerate long term.
Crous C, Granger C, Luebberding S. Skin Health Dis. 2024. Review: L-ascorbic acid remains effective, but instability and irritation are major drawbacks. More stable derivatives were developed to improve delivery and tolerability.
Swindell WR, et al. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a lipophilic vitamin C derivative designed to improve penetration and stability, though formulation quality still matters.
Kazemeini S, et al. 2025 clinical review. Many topical vitamin C products now use derivatives such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate because they are more stable and can be converted in skin to active ascorbic acid.
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FTC: Some links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product through one of them, I will receive a commission (at no additional cost to you). I truly appreciate your support of my channel. Thank you for watching! Video is not sponsored. DISCLAIMER: This video does not contain any medical or health related diagnosis or treatment advice. Content provided on this YouTube Channel is for informational purposes only. For any medical or health related advice, please consult with a physician or other healthcare professionals. Further, information about specific products or treatments within this video are not to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent disease.
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0:00 The truth about vitamin C
0:26 Why the old favorite may be outdated
1:12 The serum problem most people miss
2:03 Why that sting is not a flex
3:01 The pH issue changing your skin barrier
4:06 The smarter delivery system
5:08 Why THD is showing up everywhere
6:10 How to choose vitamin C without getting fooled
