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Even as a longtime beauty editor, I find it hard to keep up with all the different skincare ingredients out there. Peptides, PDRN, growth factors, ectoin, hypochlorous acid, the list of trending ingredients goes on and on. Despite all the newness, every time I ask a dermatologist what I should be using in my skincare routine, the same two ingredients come up: retinol and vitamin C. When it comes to efficacy, these two ingredients truly work.
“These ingredients are a dream team for tackling dullness, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, acne and acne scarring, and overall skin aging,” says dermatologist Deanne Mraz, MD, noting that retinol and vitamin C are the two ingredients she recommends most to her patients. “From a health perspective, vitamin C neutralizes free radicals and stressors on the skin, while retinol helps the skin to shed unhealthy and potentially pre-cancerous skin cells, so they’re very complementary.”
This is exactly why I compiled this handy guide for combining retinol and vitamin C. Ahead, everything you need to know about using this derm-favorite duo, plus the best retinol and vitamin C products to try right now.
Retinol 101
What is retinol and how does it work?
Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A that’s often used in skincare products to stimulate collagen production (the protein responsible for skin smoothness and firmness) and trigger cell turnover (your skin’s natural renewal process). “By signaling cells to behave like younger cells, retinol can smooth fine lines and wrinkles, fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation, and improve skin’s tone and texture,” explains dermatologist Dendy Engelman, MD.
Retinol is also a fantastic ingredient for treating acne, since it “works on a cellular level to help kickstart your cell turnover rate, reduce inflammation, and decrease oil production—all key functions for keeping pores clear and skin free of breakouts,” says dermatologist Shari Marchbein, MD.
What to look for in a retinol:
Retinol is available in various potencies either over-the-counter or via a prescription and is typically offered in the form of a face serum, gel, or night cream. I personally use an Rx retinol from my dermatologist to help with my acne, but if you go the over-the-counter retinol route, choose a formula that’s labeled “encapsulated.” That means the retinol will be slowly released into the skin to mitigate any irritation and keep the ingredient more stable.
You’ll also want to pay attention to the percentage of retinol in your serum or cream as well. As a general rule, it’s best to start out with a low percentage, like 0.25, and then gradually work your way up to a higher concentration, like 0.5 or 1.0, as your skin tolerates it.
What can retinol not be used with?
While we’re on the topic of retinol, it’s important to know that the ingredient is strong and can cause skin to peel, flake, or become sensitive—especially during the first few weeks of use or when combined with other harsh actives, like AHAs and BHAs. That means that retinol cannot be used at the same time as your leave-on products with glycolic acid, mandelic acid, lactic acid, or salicylic acid.
Vitamin C 101
What is vitamin C and how does it work?
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that can help prevent signs of aging and repair skin damage when used topically. In terms of prevention, vitamin C is excellent at protecting the skin from free radical damage caused by environmental aggressors, such as pollution, infrared light, and blue light, says Dr. Mraz.
“On the reparative side, vitamin C also supports collagen synthesis and helps regulate melanin production to fade hyperpigmentation and give skin nice overall vibrancy and glow,” says Dr. Mraz, adding that research has also shown that vitamin C, which is often found in the form of a serum, can boost the protective benefits of SPF when used together.
What to look for in a vitamin C serum:
Not all vitamin C serums are created equal. According to Dr. Marchbein, the most effective formulas contain one of the seven commonly used forms of vitamin C below:
L-Ascorbic Acid: The most powerful and well-studied form of vitamin C. While very effective, it may be too strong for those with sensitive skin. Plus, it’s unstable, so if it’s not properly packaged, it can become inactive.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD): A form of vitamin C that’s as potent as L-ascorbic acid, but much more stable and less irritating to the skin.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate/Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate: Two stable, hydrating forms of vitamin C that pair well with niacinamide.
Sodium Ascorbate/Calcium Ascorbate: Often referred to as vitamin C esters, these are two more stable and non-irritating forms of vitamin C:
Ascorbyl Palmitate: One of the least powerful forms of vitamin C, but it’s the most stable (aka least likely to break down when exposed to light or air) and a great choice for sensitive skin.
Also important to note? The percentage of vitamin C used in the formula. In general, vitamin C serums with 10 to 30 percent of the ingredient are more likely to be effective on dark spots and hyperpigmentation, while anything under 10 percent functions as a powerful antioxidant and will protect skin from free radical damage.
And lastly, you’ll want to consider the packaging. Depending on the formulation, vitamin C can oxidize (or become less effective) when exposed to light and air. To ensure your vitamin C serum stays fresh and effective, choose a formula that’s housed in opaque, airtight packaging when possible.
Tips on using retinol and vitamin C together:
What are the risks of using retinol and vitamin C together?
Vitamin C and retinol are both very powerful ingredients, which is in many ways what makes them so worthwhile, but it also means that you need to use them with caution. “Using these ingredients together is great for getting the protective and anti-aging results that you want, says Dr. Engelman, “but the downside is that they can irritate the skin.”
And that’s especially true if you have sensitive skin: “Using both retinol and vitamin C can cause redness, itchiness, sensitivity, and other unwanted side effects,” says Dr. Engelman. That said, you can avoid or lessen irritation by spacing out the time between applying these two ingredients, or by using your vitamin C in the morning and your retinol at night.
Can I use retinol at night and vitamin C in the morning?
In general, yes, retinol is best used at night, and vitamin C is best used in the morning. In the morning, apply your vitamin C serum to clean, dry skin and follow with a face moisturizer for your skin type and sunscreen with SPF 30 or more. If you’re using a face moisturizer with vitamin C, then just SPF on top is fine.
“In the evening, you should apply your retinol to clean, dry skin, and if your skin tends to be on the drier side, you can layer it with a hyaluronic acid serum or hydrating moisturizer,” says Dr. Mraz. And since retinol can cause excessive dryness around the eyes and mouth, Dr. Mraz recommends applying an occlusive ointment, such as Aquaphor or Vaseline, to those areas before using your retinol to create a protective barrier.
And FYI, if you’re someone who can’t be bothered with an a.m. and p.m. routine and just wants to focus on skincare at night, you can use vitamin C and retinol together as long as it’s in the same product (try Neutrogena’s Rapid Tone Repair Correcting Cream or U Beauty’s Resurfacing Compound).
The bottom line:
Our experts all agree that when it comes to preventing and treating acne and acne scars and reversing signs of aging, like fine lines, uneven skin texture, and discoloration, there are no two better ingredients than retinol and vitamin C. “It’s definitely a good idea to use both of these ingredients in your regular skincare routine,” says Dr. Engelman.
Just remember to choose formulas that are right for your skin type and skin concerns and to use your vitamin C in the morning (with SPF, of course) and your retinol in the evening before bed.
Meet the experts:
Deanne Mraz, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and cofounder of Modern Dermatology in Westport, CT, where she and her team offer all types of medical and cosmetic dermatology treatments.
Dendy Engelman, MD, is a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist and Mohs surgeon at Shafer Clinic in New York, NY. Dr. Engelman is an expert in injectables, lasers, and chemical peels.
Why trust Cosmopolitan?
Lauren Balsamo is the beauty director at Cosmopolitan, with more than 13 years of experience researching, writing, and editing beauty stories ranging from the best skincare routine for your 30s to a comprehensive roundup of the best drugstore skincare brands. She regularly tests and analyzes new skincare products and treatments while working with the industry’s top experts to assess new brands, trends, and technologies.
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