“Injectable peptides could usher beauty and longevity rituals into a new era, but at the moment, we’re flailing blindly in confusion and misinformation,” says Suzanne Scott, global associate beauty director at PR and strategy firm Seen Group. “There simply isn’t enough testing or regulation.”
As a starting point, brands that have long used topical peptides in their products should be more vocal about it, to capitalize on the buzz around the catch-all term. “We may see them mentioned more on pack, because the word ‘peptide’ will almost definitely become a word that consumers associate with longevity,” says Scott. “[Conumers] might not fully understand what a peptide is and what it does, they just associate it with beauty innovation, efficacy, and results.”
“Topical [peptides] have been around for years, and new ones are coming up every few months,” says Dr. Lamees Hamdan, founder of Dubai-based wellness brand Cosmic Doctor. “They tend to be expensive and drive up the cost of the skincare product. But even the new peptides have not been tested for very long, so we don’t know if their results are consistent.”
Dr. Michael Ingrassia, VP of advanced technologies, global research and innovation at Estée Lauder Companies (ELC), says that while a topical product might not replicate an injectable, advances in injectable science have been pushing scientists at ELC to think about ingredients that can provide alternatives in the cosmetic space, along with the necessary stability, compatibility, bioavailability, and delivery. “The real opportunity lies in finding ways to translate complex biology into cosmetic formats that are stable, safe, and provide advanced visible skin benefits. Ingredients like these are already shaping the next generation of skincare research,” he says.
Lecturer Roberts says that getting a peptide to clinical trial could take between five to 15 years, and will cost millions because they cannot be patented unless a new activity is discovered. “If [brands] can’t patent it, they can’t make their money back,” he says.
The next step for brands
The risks with peptides are still not fully understood. But there are potential future growth opportunities for brands conducting their own peptide research.
Dr. Anita Sturnham, founder of skincare brand Decree, says that injectable peptides and their properties are closer to coming to market than many people realize. “While regulations remain strict, these compounds can now be used in clinical settings, strictly on a trial basis,” she says. “I’d expect to see injectable and inhaled peptides establishing a credible presence in medical-aesthetic and clinical beauty settings within the next five years, with broader consumer market applications following as the evidence base grows.”
Brands that start exploring peptides within their research and development (R&D) labs will get a headstart on market share. The FDA’s recent consideration signals that the regulatory landscape may well shift with the science. At the time of the announcement on Wednesday, digital healthcare company Hims & Hers’s shares increased 12%. The company has a peptide facility that it scaled last year, and has already carved out a name in the health space for tackling weight loss, hair loss, and libido performance. When asked for comment, the company’s chief medical officer Dr. Patrick Carroll said that Hims & Hers is “actively exploring how to expand access in a way that will be aligned with FDA guidance and reflects our commitment to consumer safety, transparency, and clinical excellence”.
