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Big, bouncy blow-dries and boho texture may have dominated recent seasons, but backstage at London Fashion Week autumn/winter 2026, a sleeker nod to the noughties took control.
Across multiple shows, hair was pressed and with a precisely sharp cut signalling a decisive return to pin-straight styles.
The shift was most striking at Chet Lo, where lead stylist and global creative advocate for Authentic Beauty Concept Anna Cofone created what she described as “glass straight” hair to complement the designer’s sculptural, high-impact silhouettes.
Backstage, teams worked methodically, sectioning hair with surgical precision. Fine-tooth combs carved out razor-sharp centre partings while straighteners glided over each panel until it reflected the light. The finish was like liquid – no bend, no fluff, no excess movement.
“The inspiration for the look is pulling from south-east Asian identity, drawing from the iconic head-dresses of the Peking opera,” Cofone explained to the Press Association. “In opera they use ostrich feathers as an extension of the performance […] so we wanted to bring that into the hair. You’ll see these beautiful moments where they have ostrich feathers and we wanted to do it in a simple modern way – the hair is glass straight.”
The cultural reference was translated through sculptural feather placements that extended horizontally from the head, almost like aerodynamic wings. Feathers have also been a dominant trend on the runway in designer’s collections.
What made the look feel modern rather than overly theatrical was the immaculate base: ultra-flat, mirror-like strands tucked tightly behind the ears or falling bluntly against the jawline. The shine was amplified with finishing sprays, giving the hair an almost vinyl sheen under the lights.
Cofone believes the return of straight hair reflects a broader beauty trend. “I think we’ll see [straight hair] quite a lot this coming season as we’ve had a lot of big hair and a lot of movement, texture so I love the idea of glass straight coming back in,” she said.
After seasons of soft waves, natural curls and voluminous eighties blow-dries, autumn/winter 2026 suggests a swing back towards structure.
The noughties reference of early flat-iron culture and poker-straight lengths has been refined into something more architectural.
On the runway, the effect was dramatic. Centre-parted bobs were cut blunt and severe, their symmetry emphasised by the feathers piercing outward from behind the ears. The hyper-sleek texture contrasted sharply with Chet Lo’s spiked knitwear and sheer layers, creating tension between softness and rigidity.
Precision also defined Paul Costelloe’s autumn/winter 2026 show. While Chet Lo’s interpretation of straight hair was more graphic and directional, Costelloe’s was controlled and classical.
Toni and Guy global creative director Cos Sakkas led the hair team in crafting a look that mirrored the Irish designer’s powerful tailoring. Hair was smoothed to a high-shine finish before being drawn into a low, sculpted chignon at the nape.
The centre parting was crisp, reinforcing the sharp lines of Costelloe’s suiting. Here, shine was again key. Under backstage lights, the hair appeared almost lacquered – a controlled surface that complemented the collection’s structured coats and tailored silhouettes.
Costelloe’s take leaned towards power dressing while Brazilian-born designer Karoline Vitto’s autumn/winter 2026 runway demonstrated how sleek hair can also frame sensuality.
On Vitto’s runway, models wore slicked-back styles that hugged the scalp. The finish was clean, emphasising bone structure and allowing the brand’s signature cut-outs and draped silhouettes to take centre stage.
The shine mirrored the fluidity of the fabrics, reinforcing the body-conscious nature of the designs.
Previous seasons have celebrated individuality through natural movement and airy volume, such as Chloe’s seminal autumn/winter 2024 show that kicked off the bohemian-wave hair trend.
But hair is no longer competing with clothing; instead, it’s sharpening it. The severity of a centre part, the gloss of flattened strands, the discipline of a low bun are all details elevate rather than overwhelm a look.
It’s unsurprising that this follows the 20-year trend cycle. The early 2000s obsession with straighteners is being reimagined through a high-fashion lens.
Shine, in particular, is emerging as the defining beauty trend. First we had glass skin, now we have glass hair. Whether worn loose and blade-straight like at Chet Lo, coiled into a controlled chignon at Paul Costelloe or slicked neatly back at Karoline Vitto, the unifying factor is gloss.
London Fashion Week’s backstage beauty scene made one thing clear this season: the era of glass, straight hair is officially back.
