Thick, lustrous shampoo-commercial hair has always been something to covet, but for most of history, whether you could maintain a robust mane largely came down to hitting the genetic lottery. However, in the past few years, advancements in surgical hair transplants, medications and hair-growth tools have made it so most anyone can hold onto hair they’ve got — and even support new growth — if they’re willing to shell out some cash or diligently commit to a routine.
With so many hair-thinning products hitting the market, as a beauty editor, I’ve been covering scalp care and scalp treatments with great interest. And, as a 53-year-old woman who has experienced my fair share of follicular shedding and thinning, I’m especially keen to sort effective hair-growth hope from scammy hype.
To that end, I reached out to dermatologists about two hair-growth contraptions that seem to show the most promise — scalp exfoliation tools and red-light therapy devices — to find out whether they actually work, what they do and which to buy. While there are still loads of hair-growth products to try at home, if you’re interested in these newfangled (and in some cases quite old-fangled) devices, here’s what to know.
Manual tools for improving scalp circulation
Research shows that your scalp health can dictate the health, growth cycle and density of your hair. In particular, scalp exfoliation and massage have been shown to increase blood flow to the scalp and remove product buildup and sebum. “Properly exfoliating your scalp can help unclog hair follicles, stimulate circulation and promote healthier hair growth,” board-certified dermatologist Dr. Dara Spearman tells Yahoo.
In addition to increasing blood flow, regular scalp massage may actually thicken the hair you have. One study out of Japan revealed that just four minutes of daily scalp massage increased hair density after six months. “The idea behind this is that mechanical stimulation from massage may affect the dermal papillae,” explains Dr. Sandra Oska, a board-certified dermatologist at the Dermatology Institute & Skin Cancer Center. The results are promising, though she cautions, “The evidence for scalp massage is much weaker than it is for red-light devices.”
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File this recycled-plastic brush under “things you don’t think you need until you try them.” It makes scalp exfoliation and massage easy — just apply your shampoo or hair oil and go to town in circular motions for a minute or two. Not only will you unclog pores on your scalp and improve circulation, but it feels amazingly relaxing too.
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This highly rated, waterproof, cordless electric scalp massager is designed to replicate the feeling of human fingers on your head. It has four speed settings, including two kneading options, and the four massage heads have nearly two dozen individual nodes for a thorough cranial rubdown.
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If you want to go old-school with your scalp exfoliation, this gua sha comb will give you a no-fuss massage for a song. Tools like this have been part of traditional Chinese medicine for hundreds of years, and some date back as far as 200 BC. It’s designed to glide through hair comfortably, without tugging, all while soothing and stimulating the scalp.
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Vegamour is best known for its popular hair-growth serum (Nicole Kidman is a fan) but it also puts out reliably high-quality hair-growth tools like this dermaroller. As with microneedling for the face, the device utilizes 1,200 tiny stainless-steel needles to (extremely) lightly prick the skin on your scalp, stimulate circulation and promote hair growth. Experts I spoke with say it works best in tandem with a hair-growth serum — it can enhance the impact of the product by helping it deeper penetrate the skin.
Red-light therapy tools for stimulating new hair growth
Oska is more bullish on laser and red-light devices for improving hair thickness and growth. “Red-light therapy, or low-level laser therapy (LLLT) operates on the principle of photobiomodulation, which means using low levels of light to stimulate cellular activity,” she says. “Red light penetrates the scalp to reach the base of the hair follicles and activate mitochondria [to make] cellular energy. The mitochondria is universally known by doctors and medical trainees as the powerhouse of the cell. This increase in cellular energy can help shift more hair follicles into the active growth phase.”
Experts say both types of devices are most effective for those with early and mild hair thinning, and that results start to appear in a matter of weeks. LLLT devices tend to work faster and more effectively — but they’re also more complex and far more expensive. For example, the Revian LLLT cap Oska recommends is nearly $2,000.
Whichever you pick, these devices are safe when they’re used as directed, Oska says. “They produce a temporary warming effect on the scalp, which resolves itself within minutes,” she explains. “In order to be effective, though, use should be consistent over the course of six months and treatment sessions should take place about three to four times per week.”
If you’re choosing between an LED comb/brush or a cap/helmet, Oska has this advice: “If hair loss is diffuse, caps are preferred to combs. If the hair is already quite thick or if there is a specific problem area you want to focus on, the comb can be more targeted. With the cap, you can be hands-off and no effort is needed other than putting the cap on. The comb, however, requires more patient effort and attention to detail.”
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This vibrating brush utilizes both high wavelength red and blue light to help stimulate follicular activity, minimize shedding and promote hair thickness and density over time.
The ergonomic handle design makes it easier to hold over longer treatment sessions.
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Hairmax’s cordless, FDA-cleared LLLT device is Oska’s pick for a laser hair regrowth comb. “This is a great choice for patients with already thick hair who are noticing early or mild shedding or for those with a specific area of focus on the scalp,” she says.
Megelin
If you’re looking to keep up your red-light hair growth journey while on the go, this nondescript LED cap is a solid choice. It fits as comfortably as a regular ol’ baseball cap but is packed with a respectable 120 LED bulbs. For $100 more, you can splash out on the GrowLux Laser+LED Cap — same principle, but with a more potent combination of red light and LLLT.
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This LLLT helmet tops many hair-growth best lists for a reason: It’s a potent, thoughtfully designed device from a trusted brand that reviewers say yields real results, particularly if your hair is thinning in patches. The FDA-cleared helmet features 120 carefully spaced red LED lights that emit wavelengths powerful enough to penetrate the scalp and stimulate dormant hair follicles. Unlike the caps, it covers your entire head, including the nape. You’ll see results in as little as a few weeks.
While the price makes it an investment, it’s a lot more economical than hair transplant surgery, which can run upwards of $25,000.