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Vitamin C can be provided to the skin through topical application. The stratum corneum is the primary obstacle to efficient vitamin C absorption from external sources removal of the stratum corneum by laser, chemical, or mechanical methods enhances absorption. Although similar studies are still required for humans, studies in laboratory animals show that percutaneous vitamin C absorption greatly depends on pH. Preparations with a pH below 4.0 aid in transport by promoting the uncharged form of vitamin C, ascorbic acid . Although concentrations of vitamin C up to 30% have been used for animal studies, maximal absorption was achieved with a 20% vitamin C solution, with higher concentrations showing lower absorption. Topical application of ascorbic acid will cross the epidermis into the underlying dermal layers.
The stability of vitamin C in topical solutions is a concern, as exposures to air, heat, and/or light may slowly degrade vitamin C. Although the natural form of vitamin C, ascorbic acid, is the most effective for topical administration, it is the least stable in solution. However, stable synthetic derivatives, such as ascorbate phosphate, are considered to have limited permeability and function in skin. Another stable lipid-soluble derivative, ascorbyl palmitate, also has limited absorption, and one in vitro study with cultured skin cells found that the administration of ascorbyl palmitate had some toxic effects. Yet, the stability of topical vitamin C solutions may be increased by the addition of other antioxidant compounds.
Human studies with subjects using topically applied solutions of 0.6%-10.0% vitamin C or its synthetic derivatives have not reported adverse effects.
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