Local musicians set up in the middle of Gus O’Connor’s pub in Doolin, Ireland. There’s live music every night, starting between 8:30 p.m. and 10 p.m. (Photo by Scott McMurren)
The music started softly in Gus O’Connor’s pub in Doolin, a tiny town in County Clare on Ireland’s west coast. Just a fiddle player tuning up. Pretty soon we heard the Irish whistle and an accordion chime in.
Right away, everyone in the crowded bar was tapping their feet and rocking side to side. This small village of about 300 people is regarded as the heart of traditional Irish music.
Bernice, our hostess at O’Connor’s Farmhouse, was juggling one of her two sons in her arms as she checked us in. The eldest, Tiernan, about 4 years old, followed close behind. “All the pubs are within walking distance,” she said. “Less than five minutes.”
Based on her recommendation, we mapped out three pubs that host live music each night: McGann’s, McDermott’s and Gus O’Connor’s.
The music starts each evening between 8:30 and 10 p.m. — and it’s not just for tourists. These establishments are community spaces where neighbors gather to enjoy the lively tempos and the heartfelt ballads that characterize Ireland’s traditional music.
We spent three nights in Doolin, enjoying pub fare each evening. All the menus are the same: fish and chips, a burger, beef stew, chicken curry and a couple of other dishes. Food service ends at 9 p.m., but the music — and the beer — flows until late in the evening.
Speaking of beer, Guinness, the hearty stout brewed in Dublin, is served everywhere along with a big selection of other draft beers. But I enjoyed the “Guinness 0.0” non-alcoholic brew.
In addition to its musical heritage, Doolin is a ferry hub for several nearby islands. You can see the Aran Islands from the ferry dock. Three islands are served regularly from Doolin: Inisheer, Inishman and the largest, Inishmore.
It’s a short ride with stops at one or two islands before getting to Inishmore, where most day-trippers get off. There are options to take a hop-on/hop-off van tour, to rent a bike, even diving and off-road adventures.
Bikers beware: The roads are narrow with no shoulders. All of the van drivers and residents know that dozens of cyclists may whizz by at any time. Still, it’s disconcerting to see some visitors struggle with their bikes as traffic buzzes by. Many of the bikes are e-bikes, which is handy since there are several hills on the island.
Joe Gill, whose family has lived on the island for more than 300 years, took us to see some of the highlights, including an eighth-century church founded by monks that included an elite school. Nearby there’s a viewing point to see harbor seals. The highlight is a giant fort built on the cliffs. The hike takes about 30 minutes each way.
Standing at the ancient fort called Dún Aonghasa on the island of Inishmore, off the coast of Doolin, Ireland. (Photo by Scott McMurren)
The fort, called Dún Aonghasa, was built in the Bronze Age. Habitation began around 1100 BCE, according to the carbon-dating of artifacts. Don’t get too close to the edge. The last step is a doozie.
Joe has a nice, new van. But his manners and demeanor are old-school. Irish is his first language. No website. No Facebook. If you want to ride with Joe, call him up: (+353)87-235-0165. He might share some pictures of his grandkids that he has on his phone. And maybe he’ll sing you an Irish song as you make your way down the too-narrow lanes of Inishmore.
A standout feature of the island is all of the rock walls that divide the land into small parcels for grazing. While there used to be an active fishing industry on the island, now most of the population is involved in tourism: sweater shops, van drivers, bike rentals, restaurants and B&Bs.
The Doolin Ferry Company operates a fleet of swift, modern passenger ferries for the short crossing to the islands. There’s a separate cargo boat for cars, trucks and bulk freight.
In addition to the island shuttles, Doolin Ferry Co. offers a tour of the nearby Cliffs of Mohar. These magnificent cliffs rise up 700 feet from the water. You can see the cliffs on the way to the Aran Islands, but the morning light leaves the cliff surfaces in the shade. For photos, it’s better to see them in the afternoon light.
Travelers enjoying a tour of the Cliffs of Mohar near Doolin, Ireland. The 50-minute tour is operated by Doolin Ferry Company. (Photo by Scott McMurren)
We got a tip that the cliffs are best viewed from the water. The tour takes about 45 minutes and offers an up-close look at the old forts at the top and the bird rookeries below.
Even though many Americans share common heritage with the Irish, there are some important considerations when planning your trip:
First, the rental cars are right-hand-drive. That’s important to remember. Also, many of the roads are very narrow. Many of the bridges are single-lane. Gas is about $9 per gallon, so a hybrid rental car will save you money.
Next, it’s cold and windy. We spent a couple of days hiking in the national parks at Connamera and at Burren. Both parks offer spectacular views and interesting geological landscapes. But I was glad we had good rain gear, gloves and hats. Be prepared as if you were standing on the bow of the tour boat during a rainy visit to Kenai Fjords National Park!
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There are several options for one-stop flights between Anchorage and Dublin on United, American and Delta. Or, choose Aer Lingus’ nonstop flight from Seattle to get your Atmos Rewards points. The number of points you’ll receive varies. If you book at alaskaair.com, you’ll receive more points than if you buy your tickets through Aer Lingus’ website. But it’s definitely worthwhile to check both sites, as the fare can vary by hundreds of dollars for exactly the same flights and dates.
Credit cards are accepted everywhere in Ireland, even at the turnstile to get into the bathroom at the shopping mall! Still, we had one host at a B&B that required a cash payment. Ireland is part of the European Union, so everything is priced in euros.
Should you visit Ireland? I think so. The cultural heritage of Ireland stretches back thousands of years before St. Patrick arrived in the 5th century (CE), introducing Christianity to the island. Many Americans can trace their family heritage back to Ireland — and that’s a big reason Ireland remains a popular destination.
Ireland is an old land, but a young country. There was a civil war 100 years ago to separate from England and for the Irish Republic. It’s just one of the many struggles the Irish have endured, including the great famine of 1845 and the decades-long struggles between Ireland and Northern Ireland, which remains part of the United Kingdom.
These events are the backdrop to a wonderful land of friendly people and glorious natural beauty. Sure, it’s raining. But it’s also green. And everyone loves the traditional Irish music!
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